Inspiration + Themes
The nature of icebergs is that they are chunks of frozen fresh water that calve off a glacier and float off to sea to melt. If the glacier is not healthy, it will keep calving off icebergs but not replenish the lost ice in the winter - it keeps retreating every year. This is the case of many glaciers in Greenland and all over the world. The horrifyingly rapid acceleration of how many icebergs are entering our oceans is the direct result of climate change. My images Greenland’s icebergs are beautiful but they should sound an alarm.
I think the urgency, wording and visual impact of what these trips are about is best summarized by our friends at the Arctic Arts Project so I will paraphrase them below. Please see their site and support their artists to further the mission and impact.
Tema 1: awe-inspiring landscapes & Traditions of Greenland
Greenland’s natural wonders and cultural riches are vast. Whether it’s whale watching in serene waters, wandering through untouched terrain, or sailing under the gentle glow of the midnight sun, Greenland offers a wealth of experiences awaiting exploration. This new trip invites travellers to immerse in Greenland’s rich cultural tapestry, making every visit a memorable journey through the Arctic’s pristine beauty and cherished traditions.
It comes as a surprise to many any people on earth that the Arctic is inhabited. Science has recently confirmed through DNA studies the humans have lived north of the arctic circle for more than 40,000 years.
The Greenland Ice Sheet is melting at 7 times the rate it was in the early 1990s. For every centimeter of sea level rise, 6 million more people are exposed to coastal flooding on a yearly basis. Mitigating CO2 levels to prevent catastrophic loss of ice from the world’s ice sheets is the only way we can keep our current coastlines habitable and safe for the people who live there.
Relevant Destinations: All Greenland - Ilulissat + Uummannaq
Timeframe: Winter - Feb through April or Summer - August + September
tema 2: greenland Climate in Chaos + Wildlife Implications
Greenland is understood to be ground zero of climate change. Sometimes you need to experience the changing world and the impact of climate change on the environment to understand it. There is no better place to go now than the Arctic but particularly Greenland.
Sea ice is a dynamic part of the Arctic and plays a critical role in the lives of many marine animals and indigenous people living there. As temperatures warm over the Arctic seas, ice melts more quickly and does not reform as easily. Ice formed over many years is becoming less and less prevalent, resulting in vast areas of the northern oceans that are grey rather than white in winter, since younger ice is darker. White reflects more of the sun’s radiation and keeps things cooler, so the darker sea ice increases temperatures and contributes to even more melt.
Sea ice loss has also changed the way indigenous people and many animals function in winter. In some areas of the Arctic, people can no longer travel by dog sled over the ice in winter because the ice has become too unpredictable and dangerous. This results in communities that are accessible only by helicopter in winter. Polar bears need sea ice for hunting and to travel long distances. The unpredictable ice can strand the bears on land with limited food and in proximity to human communities.
Wildlife are completely dependent on their ecosystems to survive. Hundreds of thousands of years have given each animal its space to thrive in symbiosis with the land, plants and animals around them. For some species, in more gentle places on the earth, there is flexibility for them to adapt to changing conditions. In the Arctic, there is often a razor thin line between survival and rapid decline. Climate chaos has wrought many changes to the Arctic landscape. Sea ice is dwindling. For polar bears, this means they can become trapped on land and limited to a small area for hunting. The Arctic is harsh and each animal that has grown into that environment has a small space of optimal conditions, into which it fits. The new Arctic is a different place, and many of the animals there are not prepared for the changes.
Polar bears are king of the Arctic. They are the largest predator around and very well equipped to survive in the harsh conditions of their Arctic habitat. Media coverage of polar bears has made them the most visible species under threat by the extreme changes climate chaos has wrought in the far north. The primary threat for the bears is diminished sea ice. The Arctic has warmed an average of 2.1 degrees celsius in the last 20 years and the landscape has changed in significant ways. Sea ice now melts earlier in the year and more of it disappears each summer. For the bears, this poses a significant problem. They use the ice to hunt their favorite food; seal. When the sea ice melts and is far from the coastlines, bears are unable to move around and can be trapped on the land until the ice returns in the fall. An adaptable species, the bears will turn to other food sources, as the seals become inaccessible. Populations studied by scientists found that average adult weight has dropped and fewer cubs survive. Food supply and habitat loss are likely culprits as the bears struggle to survive in a changing Arctic landscape.
Climate Chaos is the biggest environmental threat humanity has ever faced and it affects us all. Let’s come together to fight and protect the Arctic. It begins with you. We can reduce climate pollution, improve efficiency, and promote renewable energy. There is hope but we must take action now.
Get involved and make it personal.
Relevant Destinations: All Greenland
Timeframe: Winter - April + May | Summer - August + September
tema 3: lifeways Greenland’s Indigenous People
Complex is likely the best way to describe the relationship of indigenous people with popular culture. In Greenland, it’s easy to see how challenging this relationship is. In some of the most remote villages, where fathers still go out to hunt Narwhal, polar bear and caribou for sustenance, kids are playing games on their cell phones. Inuit hunters use their phones to check weather conditions and call home when traveling by dog sled in remote regions. The web is free there too, and young people have access to a wealth of information about the world outside of their small villages. More indigenous kids travel abroad for their education. They want more stuff.
All this is creating a disconnect between the generations and appetites that are difficult, if not impossible to satisfy in a village of 400, that is accessible only by air or boat. Suicide rates have increased. Alcoholism is a problem, leading to domestic abuse and the like. It’s difficult to reconcile a life where polar bear skins flap on a tall framework outside with the sophistication and excitement that can be found on the web.
In some parts of Greenland, it’s easier. Nuuk, is bustling, cultural center and Greenland’s version of urban. Larger villages, and those accessible by ship, get an influx of tourists and goods. Mail is delivered regularly and there are shops with electronics and clothing. A transition is being made in these places to a life that includes a more worldly perspective. Money is made by providing the activities visitors are curious about like fishing, visiting icebergs or taking a dog sled ride.
But many indigenous people worry about their long-held culture being sidelined or lost in an influx of the new. Greenland is just one of many places on the planet struggling with these issues, as technology brings the rest of the world home. Maintaining a connection to their traditional culture is important to the people there. The lessons of how to keep that connection have been learned the hard way by other, indigenous people, offering a window of how to weave the threads of the old into the fabric of a new way of life.
Relevant Destinations: Remote Destinations - Ittoqqortoormiit and Qaanaaq
Timeframe: April + May
tema 4: Geopolitics and the mining renaissance in greenland
Greenland is a wealthy country, if you consider the rocks. Second only to China in rare earth oxides, mining companies are beginning to take a serious interest in Greenland’s stores. The world’s dependence on these minerals continues to grow. They are critical for making batteries, medical devices, solar panels and wind turbines, as well as supporting many military technologies. Greenland’s bounty leaves them poised to benefit, but questions and concerns about pollution remain at the forefront of discussions.
Uranium will be a by-product of the massive GM project and radiation has many local Inuit people worried. Several other mining companies have been surveying in earnest to take advantage of the island’s diverse store of minerals. Greenland’s government made mining uranium a possibility for the first time last year and has been forthcoming in support of mining projects. The U.S. has an agreement with Greenland to allow exploration by U.S. companies, in an effort to reduce its dependence on China for rare earth minerals.
There are still major barriers to establishing the complex sites mining requires, but it seems the door has opened and a new determination to overcome them is developing. Greenland would like independence from Denmark. Mining would provide an economic boost, as well as jobs, where few options are available.
As climate change makes more of the valuable rock accessible, one can only hope that great care will be taken by these projects to protect the people, animals and land that will undoubtedly be affected in this fragile and rapidly changing region.
Great article from NYT here about the delicate balance.
Relevant Destinations: South Greenland - Narsaq - upon request
Timeframe: Summer - August + September